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1. The Table Surface- This is what the material you are cutting is sliding against. It’s important to keep the lumber flat on the surface. If it lifts off very far you might not be cutting through completely. And any time it comes off one of the two surfaces you run the risk of messing up your cut.
2. The Fence- The fence is a flat surface you will be pushing the lumber against. The distance it is from the blade is adjustable. This will determine what size the piece will become once you cut it. The red part of the fence with the downward facing arrow is the “fence dog.” Push it in after you have the fence in the position you want it at to lock it in place.
3. Blade- The blade on a table saw is a circular saw blade. They are predominantly either 8 inches or 10 inches, depending on the model saw you have. There are different types of blades available for the different types of cuts a table saw can make. The most common are rip cuts, cross cuts, and dado cuts.
4. Miter Gauge- This is an attachment that is used to make angled (mitered) cuts with a table saw. It slides in a track that runs parallel to the blade. This is not necessary when using the fence. The miter gauge is useful for cutting the ends of smaller strips of wood.
5. Blade Height Adjustment Knob- When turned, the blade adjustment knob will raise or lower the height of the blade. This is useful when cutting materials of different thicknesses. It also is useful if you are not cutting completely through the material, like when cutting a dado groove.
6. Blade Angle Adjustment- This lever allows the blade to be angled, or to cut at 90 degrees. In some models it is a wheel, but in this model table saw it is a locking lever.
7. On-Off Switch- Pull the on-off switch up to turn the saw on. Push it in to turn it off. This functions as a safety feature that allows the saw to be turned off with your knee.
8. Blade Insert- This is a removable insert on the surface of the table. Take it off to change your blade. If you want to stack blades for making a dado cut you will want to purchase another insert that has a wider opening. Do not run a table saw without a blade insert in place.
9. Push Stick- Used to push thin strips of lumber past the blade. This accessory is meant to keep your hands away from the blade when working with smaller pieces.
10. Blade Change Wrenches- These wrenches are the correct size to remove the blade and put a new one back on. This is very convenient when you need to change a blade and the correct size wrench(s) are attached to the saw.

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The Circular Saw is a tool that can be used in many applications. The main reason is to cut the rough lumber down to the sizes you want to work with. Another example for how a circular saw might be used is if you want to cut a chamfer on the edges of a table you are making. 

 

This tool is used to make straight cuts in longer pieces of lumber. The Straight Edge is used as a guide to run the saw against the edge of. This will make sure your cut is perfectly straight, and not veering off one way or another.

 

At some point you are going to need to drill a hole in a piece of wood. The DeWalt 20V Cordless Drill is the perfect tool for this job. This tool has plenty of torque to drill through the densest hardwoods you will be working with.

And when you need to screw fasteners in, you have the driver for this. I prefer to have two tools because this allows for one to have your pilot drill bit on one and your screwdriver bit on the other. It saves a lot of time not needing to switch them out on the same too.

Sanding your materials is an important step to make your projects look nice. And the Random Orbital Sander is one of the best tools for this job. This is a handheld sander that is very easy to use. The disk spins as you move it along the surface of the material.

This tool is ideal for flat surfaces being sanded, but can also be used to kick down the sharp edge on pieces. The sanding discs are easy to change out, as they use a velcro type system. Your random orbital sander is going to get a lot of use in your shop!

There is a saying in woodworking that you are going to hear over and over. “You can never have too many clamps.” And this saying can’t be more true. This assortment of Clamps give you a variety to work with.

Clamps have many uses in the woodshop. They can be used for things like holding down a board while you plane one edge. But arguably the most important use for clamps is to glue up two boards together. These boards will need to be held tightly while the glue dries, and clamps are the best way to do this. 

 

It’s easy to overlook the Workbench as a woodworking tool for beginners, but it should not be left off the list. There can be many options to choose from, but take these characteristics into consideration before making your choice. If all these needs are met you can use pretty much whatever you want, as long as you don’t mind the surface getting worn out over time.

The workbench will need to be stable while you are doing things like planing or drilling into your materials. The surface should be large enough to fit your project on without slipping off while you work. It’s also important for it to be a comfortable height while you work, which helps keep your back from getting sore over time.

The Miter Saw is a staple in the woodworking hobby. This tool makes it quick and easy to make accurate angles in your materials. A good example of this is making mitered corners in picture frames. If you get a good quality miter saw, you won’t need to replace it for a very long time.

The miter saw will cost over $200 for a good one. If this feels like an expensive purchase that you are not ready to commit to, a good alternative is using a miter box and handsaw like this Craftsman Miter Saw. The biggest negative for this option is it takes longer for you to physically make the cuts by hand. 

A good chisel set like This One is great for doing things like making a mortise and tenon joint. The chisel is an important hand tool that shouldn’t run you very much money. This one costs $17 and comes with four size options.

You won’t be able to use your chisels without a Mallet. The benefit of using a mallet over a hammer is you are less likely to damage the materials. Mallets can be used for many tasks like making corners flush before fastening them. It is made out of dense rubber, which is safe to use on wood. 

The Hand Saw is a great tool for cutting down materials like 2×4’s or other dimensional lumber. And at $20 you don’t need to feel like you are spending a tremendous amount of money to get started in the hobby. 

The biggest negative of using a handsaw is it is not as quick as a circular saw, and much more laborious. It can feel nearly impossible to rip through a piece of plywood with a handsaw, and your accuracy may suffer. But if you are determined, the handsaw is a great option for a beginner woodworking tool.

The Tenon Saw is a fine-toothed hand saw. It’s used to make precise cuts in various woodworking joints like a mortise-and-tenon joint. These joints take a little practice, but a dedicated beginner will be able to perfect them in no time. Take your woodworking joints to a new level with a tenon saw.

The Hand Planer is a hand tool that’s used to shave off small amounts of wood at a time. This is important when you are doing things like laminating two pieces of wood together with glue, and you need a smooth surface. Or maybe you need to square up an edge of a board, and just need to take a little off.

The hand planer doesn’t cost much money, but if properly maintained you will be handing yours down to your children at some point.

The Combination Square is a well-loved hand tool among woodworkers. It’s used to make accurate 90 degree marks on your materials. Use your combination square to make the marks you want to cut for joints like a mortise and tenon joint, or dovetail joint.

You can make 45 degree and 90 degree quickly and accurately with a combination square. You can also remove the straight edge if needed as well.

I recommend going with a 16 ft Tape Measure because it’s long enough to take measurements of pretty much any materials you will be working with. The nice thing about a 16 ft tape is it isn’t very bulky, which makes it easy to clip it to your pant’s pocket when not in use. 

It’s better to use a pencil than a pen when working with wood. Any pencil will work, but I like using a Carpenter Pencil when possible. These have a thicker lead, which makes them less likely to break when making many marks on wood. You can use a Utility Knife or a Carpenter Pencil Sharpener to sharpen them.

The first tool a beginner woodworker should get is some type of a saw. Even though there are a lot of choices on the market, a Circular Saw is going to be the most versatile and useful for a beginner. A circular saw is a power tool that will let you make cuts quickly, and easily. You are not as likely to get burnt out as you would with a hand saw because the circular saw does the work for you.

Many of the first projects you will be working on will require making straight cuts. The circular saw is a perfect tool for this. It’s also a good tool for a beginner to master before moving on to another more specialized saw like a miter saw.

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It seems confusing when you don’t know how to adjust hinges on cabinets. You don’t need to pay an expensive handyman to get your cabinet doors back into alignment. Adjustable hinges on your cabinets only need one tool that you already have at home. Now let’s take a closer look at how easy it is to adjust the hinges on cabinets.

There are three screws that are used to adjust your cabinet doors. To make the adjustments all you need is a phillips screwdriver. Using small turns and checking your progress often is going to work the best. Once one door is done, move to the next door as you work down the bank of cabinets.

This article is meant for cabinet hinges with adjustment screws. It does not apply to cabinets that have face mount hinges. 

The screws shown in these diagrams are used with european style cabinets. If your cabinet has adjustable face-frame hinges, the adjustment screws will be in a different location.

The most common time the doors need adjustment is when the cabinets are first installed.  If you are installing new cabinets, Click Here to take a look at my post that covers everything you need to know about cabinet installation.

The other time cabinet hinges will need adjustment is after they begin to shift. As cabinet doors are used over time, the screws can tend to turn on their own. The more this happens, the more the doors will sag and shift, until they ultimately start hitting one another.

Required Tools:

• Multipurpose Screwdriver Set

Each of the three adjustment screws move the cabinet door in different directions. There are at least two hinges on each door, but taller doors may have three hinges. Each hinge on the door should be adjusted at the same time. We will be looking in detail at the best process for making hinge adjustments, but first it’s important to get a better understanding of what the screws do to the position of the door when turned.

Cabinet Hinge Adjustment Diagram

Each screw controls a slight amount of movement on the door in different directions. When looking at the door while closed, there are three directions it can move in. Let’s call the “X-axis” the left and right direction. The “Y-axis” will be up and down, and the “Z-axis” is towards you and away from you, as shown below.

Kitchen Cabinet Hinge Adjustment Screws

In order to know how to adjust hinges on cabinets, you first need to identify the adjustment screws. These screws are not used to attach the hinges to the cabinets or doors. Instead they control the movement of the doors when adjusted. 

Now that we understand the directions the doors can move in when adjusting them, let’s take a look at the three screws that make these adjustments. Below is a diagram of the locations of the screws you will be using on an adjustable cabinet hinge. 

The screws can only be turned roughly half a turn in each direction. The direction the door moves in will depend on if the screw is turned either clockwise or counter clockwise. Each door will not need to be moved very much because you will be able to adjust the neighboring doors as well.

When each of the doors are adjusted, the bank of cabinets will be able to have a consistent look. Adjust one door at a time, but pay attention to the next door as you are working.

How to Fix a Gap Between Cabinet Doors

One of the main goals of knowing how to adjust hinges on cabinets is being able to fix the gap between the cabinet doors. The main goal is to get the door edges to line up as close as possible. It’s also important to try to make the size of the gap between the doors as consistent as possible all the way around.

The only tool you need for this is a phillips screwdriver. I like to have a good multipurpose screwdriver set because it is a lot more versatile, giving you multiple tips to use with the same tool.

Almost all the adjustable hinges will take a #2 Phillips head, but some are easier when using a flat tip instead. It’s good to have both options handy for adjusting your cabinet hinges.

ATTENTION: Don’t use an electric drill when adjusting your cabinet hinges. The adjustments should be made using small turns. An electric drill has more power than needed, making it difficult to make small turns. You may run the risk of locking the screw, or stripping the head.

If you are working with newly installed cabinets, start by putting all the doors on before making any adjustments. With all the doors shut, begin with the cabinet doors on one of the ends of the bank of cabinets.

The corners closest to each other on the first two doors will most likely not be lined up well. The goal is to get all the cabinet doors to be lined up straight across, and parallel to the top or bottom edge of the cabinets. Also you will want to have the gap a similar width around each door. This will take many small adjustments as you work down the row. 

Open the door you want to make the adjustment on, and turn one of the adjustment screws. Close the door to tell if that was the correct screw and direction. If not, open it and turn it the other way to correct it.

As you turn the different screws, you will get used to what direction the doors are moving in. It will become natural for you to know what screw to turn as you are working.

As I go I like to run my finger along the top or bottom corners of the doors. This helps me tell how close they are, and what direction they may need adjustment.

This process will take several small adjustments on each door, possibly working with more than one adjustment screws. You will notice the cabinet doors start to line up straight. 

How to Adjust Corner Cabinet Hinges

Two-door corner cabinet hinges also have adjustment screws. All four hinges on the cabinet have screws to adjust the doors in the three directions discussed above. 

If you want to know how to adjust hinges on corner cabinets, start by locating the adjustment screws. These are not the screws used to install the hinges to either the cabinet or the doors. You may need to try turning the screws to tell which direction they move the doors in. 

Use the process described above to make adjustments on the doors. It may take a bit longer because there are more hinges for these cabinets, but take your time. These hinges work in much the same way as the other cabinet doors do.

The main thing to remember when learning how to adjust hinges on cabinets is it works best if you make small corrections and check how the doors look. This can take several turns per hinge. The hinges are not designed to be adjusted very far. 

I hope this article helped you out. If you have any questions or comments please leave them in the comment section below.

Happy Woodworking,

Kevin

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Don’t throw away your money, when you can take the time and do it yourself! In this article you are going to learn my five favorite ways to fix any sticking door, both interior and exterior. Now let’s take a look at how to fix a sticking door.

What Makes Doors Stick?

To better understand what needs to be fixed, let’s first quickly go over what causes a door to stick in the first place. At the most basic level, the door has shifted enough to cause it to rub against the door jamb (door frame). This is a common thing that happens as we use the door over time. 

When doors swing on their hinges as we open and shut them, it causes a centripetal force to be applied. This may cause the door to shift enough to rub against the jamb, causing it to stick. The heavier the door is, the more likely this problem would be to cause a door to stick.

1. Door Sticking On Strike Plate

When a door gets out of alignment all of the components will shift, making them offset. This includes the knob and deadbolt. When the door is then closed the latch will make contact with the edge of the strike plate. 

A sagging door can cause the latch to get stuck on the strike plate. This can make a larger problem if left unchecked. You may run the risk of breaking a key off in the lock because the latch is too hard to turn.

Another reason doors stick is they may swell up and get locked into place. This happens with wooden doors and can be common as the seasons change. You usually don’t need to worry about this problem happening with fiberglass or metal doors. 

2. Tighten The Hinges On A Sticking Door

The first and easiest way to fix a sticking door is to simply tighten the hinges on the door. I like to use a manually powered screwdriver to do this. The screws don’t need to be tightened very much, so handheld screwdrivers are my favorite tool for this fix.

Warning: When using electric screwdrivers, be careful not to overtighten the screws. It is easy to either strip the heads of the screws, or to spin in the wood it’s attached to. When the screw spins freely in the wood it isn’t effectively doing it’s job. This may cause the door to get out of alignment in the future.

3. Chisel The Jamb Below The Hinge 

This fix will only take about 10 minutes or less, and needs a few simple tools. The idea is to remove a small amount of wood below the hinge, allowing the door to shift in that direction a small amount. 

When the door moves away from the handle side ⅛” that is enough to keep it from sticking anymore. This fix will last a long time as long as the door doesn’t swell with the weather.

The tools required are:

• Screwdriver or drill
• 1 inch chisel
• Hammer
• Broom and dustpan

You really only need to focus on the top hinge.

1. Remove the screws from the top hinge on the jamb side
2. Make some marks in wood by hammering the chisel in horizontal lines
3. Use these lines to grip the wood, taking out a small layer of material
4. Smooth it out, ensuring a consistent amount of ⅛” of material was removed
5. Reattach the hinge by adding the screws in the same holes.

For this method the main thing to focus on is to remove a layer of material as close to a consistent amount as possible. You want to make sure there aren’t any high spots that will prevent the hinge from sitting flat.

If you put the hinge back on and it doesn’t look like it’s sitting low enough it’s ok to remove it again and chisel away a little more. 

Remember that it’s better to take small amounts of wood off from behind the hinge. If too much wood is removed it may cause problems with the door closing from the hinge side.

4. Plane/Sand The Edge Of Sticking Doors

Using an electric sander or hand planer is another good way to get a door to close. This doesn’t take long to do, and I would like to go over the steps.

Tools:

Electric sander or hand planer

Hammer

Flat screwdriver or long nail to pop hinge pins out

Pencil or pieces of masking tape

Step 1:

Take a look at what section of the door is sticking. Make a small mark with a pencil or by putting pieces of tape on the face of the door just past the problem spot.

Step 2:

Pop out the hinge pins, removing the door from it’s frame. This can be done with a hammer and flat screwdriver.

Step 3: 

Lay the door vertically, clamping it to a sturdy surface like a workbench or table. Now is when you can remove the handle and hardware if needed. 

Step 4:

Use the sander or planer to remove material from the edge of the door. This should be done in small amounts. Also make sure to keep the edge of the door flat, and not round it off. 

Step 5:

Once you think you’ve taken enough material off you can now re-install the door. Check your work by closing the door to see if it sticks anymore. 

Step 6: 

Apply a layer of paint to seal the edge of the door where you were working. This is to keep the wood from expanding over time as the seasons change. 

5. Add Longer Screws to Doors That Sag

Adding longer screws to a door’s hinge is a great way to help pull it back into alignment. Hinges come with short screws, typically about ¾” to 1” long. This makes it easy for the screws to strip out the hole they are in. I find this is a problem for heavier doors like solid wood ones.

When choosing a good screw to fix this problem, you want to make sure the head is the same height. If your new screw has a wider head it won’t seat properly into the tapered hole on the hinge. If a screw head sticks out even 1/16” or less it may hit the hinge when the door is closed. 

I prefer choosing screws that are 3” or longer for this fix. I like screws that are size 8, but size 10 screws may work depending on your door’s hinges. The screw head type must be what’s called “flat head.” This means the top of the screw head is perfectly flat, allowing the hinge to seat well when the door is closed. I like phillips style screws better than flat head ones. This is only a preference, but flat head screws will work fine also.

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There are a few main steps to take that will help your cabinet installation go smoothly. The first step is to get all your tools ready before you start. Next get your cabinets lined up in order, starting from the corner. Finding the studs and marking them on the wall will save a lot of time. Install the lower cabinets before you install the uppers. 

Key Terms:

Pilot Hole– A hole that is drilled before installing a screw. Used to ensure the correct placement of the screw. Also helps to prevent the wood from splitting.

Flush- When the edges of the cabinet line up next to each other. 

Hole Saw- A drill bit that bores circular holes. They can be in various sizes from as small as about half an inch, up to several inches wide. The hole saws remove a circular plug of the material when finished. These are cleaner than spade bits.

Spade Bit- Similar to a hole saw, the spade bit will make a circular hole. These chip away at the material, leaving a lot of sawdust behind.

Shims- Wedge shape pieces that are used to make cabinets level. 

Ledger Board- Horizontal wooden board used to get the cabinets lined up straight. 

Kitchen Cabinet Installation Tools

The tools required to install kitchen cabinets are some that most homeowners have already. You don’t need to buy the most expensive tools either. As long as they are reliable you can use them to install cabinets.

Getting them together and in one place before you start will help a lot. It will allow you to take an inventory before you begin, giving you a chance to run to the hardware store and pick up what you need. It will also let you put them in one place, getting them organized and ready for the job at hand. 

Cabinet Installation Tools:

• Electric drill
• Drill bit set
• Countersink bit
• Hole saws or spade bits
• Various screws
• Tape measure
• Stud finder
• Pencil
• Level
• Clamps 
• Ladder
• Shims
• Mallet 

You may not need all of these tools for every cabinet installation. This list was meant to be all-inclusive, equipping you for almost any situation. 

There are times when installing cabinets and you run into rare situations that require a specialty tool you wouldn’t use too often. 

There was one install that I needed to run a water line through the crawlspace for the fridge. This required an extension for my drill bit so I could drill through a 4 in gap below the cabinet. I don’t use this extender very often, but now I have it for the situation I might need it in later.

Kitchen Cabinet Installation Instructions

Installing cabinets in a kitchen can seem like one of the most daunting tasks. There are usually more cabinets that are different sizes. This can feel overwhelming to anybody. Follow a few installation instructions to make it easier on yourself when installing kitchen cabinets.

1. Install all the base cabinets first
2. Start in corner and work your way out
3. Drill holes a half inch larger than plumbing or electrical
4. Leave the appropriate size gap between cabinets for appliances
5. Nail a ledger board at the appropriate height for upper cabinets
6. Start in corner and work your way out for uppers
7. Adjust cabinet doors after all cabinets are installed

How to Install Base Cabinets

Step 1:

Get all the tools ready for the job. I like to keep them in tool boxes or bags so I know exactly where they are when I need them. Some people will go one step further and use a tool belt. These are helpful if you are used to them, but can be awkward and bulky if you don’t normally wear them. 

Step 2:

Get the cabinets organized and in order of how they are going to be installed. This includes separating the lowers from the upper cabinets. You may not have enough room to lay them out, but take an inventory of the cabinets, and try to arrange them the best you can. Getting them in order will help you install them more smoothly, and make sure you are not missing anything.

If you went through a cabinet shop they should have included a schematic with the cabinets. This will indicate the locations of specific cabinets and how they are arranged. The cabinets would be labeled in some way, indicating where they go.

Step 3:

Pick a corner and start looking for studs. You will be installing the cabinets starting in a corner and working your way in either direction. You will also be installing the lower cabinets before the uppers. This will make it easier on you for several reasons. We will talk about these reasons later.

Find the studs and mark them on the wall. It’s best to do this lower on the wall so the cabinets will hide your marks when they are installed. For a complete overview on how to find wall studs check out my video below. 

Step 4:

Once you know where the studs are, measure from the corner of the wall to the first stud. Then make a mark on the back of the cabinet, going in the direction you are measuring from. Keep in mind if you are measuring on the wall from right to left, then when you are looking at the back of the cabinet you will be measuring from left to right. 

If the cabinet is wide enough to fall on more than one stud, put another hole where the second stud should be. You will want to screw into each stud on the wall. This will make the bank of cabinets the most secure in the long run. 

Step 5:

Drill a pilot hole in the back of the cabinet at the mark. Use a drill bit that matches the thickness of the shaft of the screw, but not the threads. This hole should als be in the middle of the nailer. Too high and it will be hard to get your drill straight into the cabinet.

Step 6:

Get a 3 IN Cabinet Screw started inside the cabinet. The screw should be drilled in just enough to where the tip is not sticking out the back of the cabinet. This will make it easy to adjust the cabinet into place before screwing it down. 

Step 7:

Hold the cabinet into position firmly while screwing it into place. This would be easier if you have someone else to help you. The screw should land on the stud securely. If the head just keeps spinning, pull the cabinet off the wall and find how far the hole needs to be moved. Drill a new hole and move the screw to this hole. 

Step 8:

Repeat steps 4-7 for each cabinet. Once you are done installing all the lower cabinets in one direction, continue in the other direction. Finish installing all the lower cabinets before you move to the upper cabinets. 

Step 9:

There might be gaps between the cabinets where certain appliances will be. The schematic should show how wide the gap is between the cabinets. If you have the appliances already you can measure the face of them. This will be the widest part, and your gap can be about a quarter inch wider than this. 

Do some math to find where the next cabinet falls on the stud. Take the distance from the edge of the last cabinet installed to the stud that the next cabinet will be on. Subtract the width of the space for the appliance. This new number will tell you how far from the edge of the cabinet to drill the pilot hole.

Step 10:

Lay a level across the tops of the cabinets. If any need adjustment back out the screw slightly, without removing it from the stud.  Tighten a clamp between the two cabinets. You may need to remove the cabinet doors to do this.

Use a mallet and shims to get the cabinets flush in the front and level on the top. Screw them together and fasten the screws in the wall studs. 

How to Install Wall Cabinets

Once the base cabinets are installed it’s time to get started on the wall cabinets. The steps for doing this is similar to installing base cabinets. The biggest difference is being able to hold the cabinets in the right place to install them. 

It is ideal to have a helper or two to hold them up while you screw them in. If you don’t have a helper, make a jig or use a box the correct size. To find out this size see FAQ’s below.

The process for installing upper cabinets is very similar to lower cabinets. Start in the corner and work your way outwards. Placing a ledger board on the wall will ensure each cabinet is at the ideal height. 

It can be helpful to clamp the cabinet to the previously installed cabinet while it’s in place. This can act as an extra set of hands. While it’s clamped you will want to use the mallet to tap it into place and line the faces up together.

Find the studs and drill pilot holes on each cabinet as you install them. This will be the easiest way to hang them, especially if you don’t have an extra helper with you. 

How to Hang Upper Cabinets By Yourself

Hanging upper cabinets is possible to do by yourself. Not having an extra helper can prove challenging, but not impossible. 

The first thing to do is find out exactly how far from the top of the lowers the bottom of the uppers should be. This is the location you want to hang your ledger board. 

Next make a simple box with pieces of plywood. The box should be the exact height you want the uppers to sit. It’s best for the box to have a piece of wood on the top and bottom. You don’t need it to have wood on all four sides, just two opposite sides. 

If you have L-brackets you should use them to reinforce the sides. You DO NOT want the walls to shift, turning the box into a parallelogram. This will change the height of the uppers.

This is going to be your extra set of hands to hold up the uppers while you do the work. Move it as you go, placing it below the cabinet you are working on at the time.

FAQ’s

Can cabinets be installed on concrete floors?

Yes. Cabinets can be installed directly on concrete floors. It’s better for several reasons to have the flooring put in before installation. Make sure each cabinet is secured to the studs and to adjacent cabinets. This will ensure the most strength without the need of securing the cabinets to the floor.

How high should I hang my upper cabinets?

The ideal distance for uppers is 18 in from the top of the countertop to the bottom of the upper. When installing uppers take into account the thickness of the countertop you will be installing. Some counters require an underlayment to adhere them to. This will be a piece of plywood that is typically either ⅝” or ¾”. From the top of the lower cabinets to the bottom of the upper cabinets should be 18” + (thickness of countertop) + (thickness of underlayment if being used).

How do I prepare cabinets for plumbing or electrical?

For cabinets that have plumbing or electrical use the appropriate hole saw or spade bit. Measure from edge of next cabinet to first hole. Mark a vertical line at this spot. Do the same for a measurement from the ground. This will give you an intersecting point that the hole will be drilled.

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